This month I was on holiday in southern Italy. The hotel was in a remote, rural area so each day my holiday companions and I would set out in our hire car to discover what exciting sights, smells and dynamic experiences we could throw ourselves into (actually, to be truthful, we were on a quest to find the best piazza-based cafe at which to people-watch, drink coffee and play cards). It turned out that the biggest adventure was to be had on the roads themselves rather than